Bandhavgarh Fort is one reason of visual and historical interest in the Tala tourism zone of Bandhavgarh national park. The moment you reach the Chakradhara meadow you see this fort stand 2500 feet tall. The white coloured Bandhav-Dhish temple is visible from below.Â
Although visiting this magnificent remnant of the ancient Bandhavgarh Fort is currently restricted, we remain hopeful that access will be granted once again in the future. When that opportunity arises, we highly recommend setting aside one safari to embark on a rewarding trek up to the fort.
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At present, visitors are allowed only up to the halfway point of the fort trail, where they may disembark to view the reclining statue of Lord Vishnu at Shesh Shaiyya. ‘Shesh’ refers to the serpent Shesh Nag, whose hood provides shade to Lord Vishnu, depicted here in Yog-Nidra—his deep meditative sleep upon the serpent’s coils.
As you ascend to this point, you pass by ancient caves and sculptures, seemingly untouched by the passage of time. The first structure you encounter is the Maharaja’s horse stable. Further up lies the House of Commons, where the general populace once gathered to voice their concerns. Finally, you reach Shesh Shaiyya—where I had my first tiger sighting in 1995. It was Sita, the queen of Bandhavgarh and one of the most majestic tigresses I’ve ever seen. A designated vehicle parking area lies to the fort’s southern base, nestled in the dense forest that cradles its ancient walls.
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This sacred spot is known as Shesh Shaiyya, home to a remarkable 32-foot-long reclining statue of Lord Vishnu—the preserver in the Indian trinity—carved in the 10th century. According to legend, the Charanganga River originates from Vishnu’s feet. Just below the statue and along the path leading to the main gate of Bandhavgarh Fort lies a serene rectangular spring pool. Though its green surface is often mistaken for algae, it is actually made up of cyanobacteria. These ancient air-breathing microorganisms are credited with producing the Earth’s first oxygen and paving the way for complex life. Today, cyanobacteria generate over 60% of the world’s oxygen. Old ponds and lakes like this one play a vital role in sustaining life, making their preservation crucial. Perhaps there is a deeper message in Vishnu, the preserver, resting upon a source of the very element that sustains humanity.
From this point, an hour-long trek leads you to the intricately sculpted entrance of the grand Bandhavgarh Fort. Spanning roughly 560 acres of grassland plateau, the fort includes three lakes and numerous ruins. As you explore, you’ll encounter remnants of a bygone civilisation: the treasury, prison, queen’s palace, parliament, school, temple, and other structures. The Bandhavgarh Fort remained inhabited until Indian Independence in 1947. Moving southward, one of the most awe-inspiring sights are the 10th-century rock carvings of Vishnu’s incarnations.Â
Towering 22 feet tall, the statue of Narasimha (half man, half lion) is especially striking. Nearby are depictions of Varaha (the boar incarnation), Matsya (the fish incarnation), and Kurma (the tortoise incarnation), the latter flanked by later carvings of Lord Ganesh and other deities. The beauty of this trek lies in discovering these statues nestled in the forest, untouched and serene. Some lie off the main path, so a knowledgeable guide is highly recommended. Also worth visiting are three modest yet ancient temples from the 12th century. Though largely deserted, Bandhavgarh Fort continues to serve as a spiritual site. It is believed that the revered 16th-century saint Kabir Das spent nearly two decades preaching here. A hidden passage from the temple once served as an escape route, and legend holds that Tansen—the famed musician and one of Emperor Akbar’s nine gems—also spent time within the historic Bandhavgarh Fort.
Bandhavgarh Fort is among the oldest forts in India, believed to be over 2,500 years old. Its natural ramparts offer breath-taking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. The skies above the fort are alive with soaring vultures, while the rugged cliffs draw species like the blue rock thrush and crag martins, adding to its wild charm.
Indeed, Bandhavgarh is a land of contrasts—an emerging national park steeped in ancient legacy. It has been a hub of human settlement and cultural significance for more than two millennia. Historical references to Bandhavgarh Fort can be found in revered ancient texts such as the Narad-Panch Ratra, the Shiva Purana, and even the Akbarnama written by Abul Fazl, underscoring its timeless importance.
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According to legend, Lord Rama—hero of the revered Hindu epic Ramayana—paused at Bandhavgarh Fort on his journey back home after vanquishing the demon king Ravana of Lanka. The fort is said to have been constructed by two monkey architects who also engineered the legendary bridge connecting Lanka to the mainland. Rama later entrusted the fort to his brother Lakshmana, who came to be known as Bandhavdhish, or “Lord of the Fort.” Lakshmana remains the presiding deity of the Bandhavgarh Fort, and his temple there continues to be a place of active worship.
The temple, until the recent past when the fort was still under the ownership of the Maharaja of Rewa, was cared for by an elderly priest. A documentary by Harry Marshall, Temple of the Tiger, showcases this priest in detail. I had the honour of meeting him many times and sharing meals with him at the temple. In his rich baritone, he would share memories of Tigers that frequented the fort, recognising him and behaving peacefully in his presence. In his youth, he would trek from Tala Village to the fort once a week. On one such occasion, near Chakradhara meadow, he was attacked by a Sloth Bear—only to be saved by a tiger, which drove the bear away and calmly walked with him back to the fort.
Thus Bandhavgarh offers excellent game, bird viewing and a historical interest which most other parks lack.
